Family

From the Bayou Country to Esplanade Avenue

New Orleans has got soul – there is no doubt in that. It is, my opinion, one of the most unique cities in our country, with no shortage of spirit, French influences and inexplicable southern sophistication. And anyone that has followed C&C for a while knows how much I adore the city's sentiments and my own family history it has played host to. A celebratory weekend trip presented an opportunity to visit a once-treasured hotel deeply tied to my family's Louisiana lineage... My Great Grandparents, Edward and Gertrude Munson, owned Glenwood, a sugar plantation estate where they entertained and delighted guests with their southern graces in the form of dinner parties, stately accommodations and infamous café brûlot. They were an elegant, intoxicating couple and the pace of life at Glenwood, just west of New Orleans, was slow and seducing.  Described as "an atmosphere of romantic charm and beauty" on a vintage postcard (below), the property was encapsulated by mossy oaks, scents of magnolia and pecan trees. My Great Grandmother Gertrude, dubbed as "Miss Gertrude" was just as enchanting and bewitching, as evidenced in a profile piece in the 1955 installment of Reader's Digest titled "The Most Unforgettable Character I've Met" (read here).  

"But those who love the scent of sweet olive and mimosa, or the Louis Philippe rose, or the old ways of the South, succumb to Glenwood's spell."

- Reader's Digest, 1955.

Despite the magic "spell" that captivated the plantation for decades, a series of events occurred forever changing Gertrude's famed Glenwood. Tragically, after the war, the cane-growing business took a hit and the mosaic disease destroyed a great deal of crops. Just in time, my Great Grandmother Gertrude triumphantly saved the plantation by allowing guests to come stay at the plantation for a fee. An ad was discreetly placed, stating:

"Louisiana couple living in their ancestral mansion will take winter guests; fine food; informal atmosphere." 

Of those winter guests was one of the most celebrated - Louise Crane (of Crane & Co. Stationary). Louise had stayed at Glenwood for several months at a time, and became dear friends with my Great Grandmother Gertrude. Even more dismally, after Glenwood was revitalized, the plantation burnt to the ground. This, understandably, left my Great Grandparents in a state of uncertainty and instability far from their days of opulence. Around this time, a tender invitation by Louise Crane was made, welcoming my Great Grandparents to help manage her newly acquired hotel in the French Quarter of New Orleans. The Lamothe House Hotel, on Esplanade Avenue was the beginning of their life in New Orleans.

For many years, the hotel served as a southern sanctuary, with an enchanting garden in the exterior courtyard. Instructions to "wire, write or telephone" to make a reservation appear in this advertisement. 

My Great Grandparents worked fastidiously with Louise to create a hotel that provided their guests with the same level of graciousness as Glenwood. The hotel was a passion project of sorts, and one that my family was deeply attached to. It saw a great deal of success in the early days with cheerful guests coming and going, and frequently profiled in press and publications for its charming accommodations.

The Lamothe House Hotel, on the cover of Southern Living's March 1981 issue.

For years growing up, my sister and I would hear tales of the famed Lamothe House and our connection to the south. My Father was even at one point a bell boy! Our first introduction to the hotel was during a family stay in our younger years, where memories of the fish pond in the enclosed garden and a narrow, dimly lit hall with its perimeter lined in antique mirrors and marble-top consoles lived in my young mind. While this was our first introduction, we were perhaps too young to truly savor the overall experience in the crescent city.

Last weekend, joined by my sister again -  now twenty years later from our initial visit - we meandered over to Esplanade Avenue to revisit The Lamothe House. We couldn't help feel a bit removed from the history and saddened by seeing that aesthetically, the hotel had seemingly lost a great deal of its southern stature. Its tall french shutters were slightly tattered, and that narrow hall I had recalled felt lonely and lost in the era of Miss Gertrude and Louise. In the courtyard, a gardener was fastening a potted hibiscus to a trellis, while young women lounged poolside. While there were young patrons and evidence of new life, it seemed to linger in a former sentiment. In my mind, as we roamed around, I refused to accept the present, still holding on to the bygone era of those that shaped its place in New Orleans, the life Miss Gertrude, Louise Crane and the other characters helped cultivate. It is for these stories I will forever remain connected to New Orleans.

To read more on Miss Gertrude and Glenwood Plantation, visit here.

The Lamothe House Hotel, June 2017. 

Rewind

IMG_0128There are moments in my life I wish I could rewind to, and this would be one of them. I wish I could snap my fingers and be back in this moment with my family over the Christmas holiday. Passion lover rum drinks, spontaneous dance parties and new found friends on the water. Our happiness was all in sync and the weather could not have been more perfect. Life is grand.

The Kids Table

kidstableOften when we would host or attend dinner parties and holiday events with my family, my sister and I would be stationed at the "kids table" away from the adult chatter. As the oldest cousin, I absolutely hated this tradition. I wanted to be part of the adult conversations and thus, spent my time at the "kids table" eavesdropping on the conversation nearby. (To this day, I don't miss a trick). I always found adult conversation so intriguing - the political and economic debates, the neighborhood gossip, the sexual puns and nearly all the subjects they "thought" were shielded from youngsters not in the main show. While I am in support of this tradition now in my adult age, I do think the Thanksgiving Holiday begs an exception. The beauty of the holiday, in my opinion, is literally getting everyone together to enjoy each other's company. It is time to relish in the organic havoc that might occur at the dining table, a time to converse with someone you wouldn't ordinarily interact with, and a time to reflect on your collective experiences, triumphs and failings in the past year. This year, nix the kids table.

Young At Heart

Screen Shot 2014-11-01 at 5.54.43 PMMy Grandmother loved reading - absolutely loved it. I have vivid memories of her reading to me (usually fairytales and poetry), and as a result, the hand-written letters she would write to me from time to time, were quite poetic and tender. I think I've inherited her knack for loving words, although I don't find myself having the time to immerse myself in books as of late, I still make time to put pen to paper and write to others, or even to myself. I still cherish the letter my Grandmother wrote to me just days before she passed away. It's stained with tears from my emotional reflections and folded in four equal parts, from being tucked away in one bureau to the next. On holidays, she would often gift me with a new book with a sentimental note, always inscribed in the front cover explaining why it was important that I read such text, or why it reminded her of me. Perhaps this is why I love giving books as gifts to this day... I was so delighted to find the release of the large-scale fairy tale books from Hans Christian Andersen and the Brothers Grimm. I think these would make spectacular gifts for anyone who grew up with these magical children's stories. Purchase here. 

 

The Sea Lovers

beachLove this photograph of Italian architect Signor Giorgio Biusos, his wife Rita and children Guendaline, Ferdinando, baby Marta and Ursula. Their classic style ketch appropriately named Chérie (which translates to "dear"), stretches her sea legs just north of Rome on the rocky coast. I particularly love how this photograph exudes such vitality, mild disarray as each subject portrays a varied expression, yet beautifully harmonious in sentiment. Not much is known about this photograph, other than the fact that it was captured by the iconic John Cowan in the 60's.  There of course, is also the caption that accompanies the photograph just to the right. The last bit reads: "Able to come and go as they please, cooled by the breezes at sea, shaded in port by an awning over the deck, the Biusos are self-contained, self-sufficient in their happy family life; happy, healthy, attractive, good-humored, enjoying their boat and each other." Joie de vivre if you ask me!

If There's a Heaven...

HappyIsle...I hope it has gold brick sundaes. This past weekend, I re-visited my bookshelf and found the above book my Grandfather gave my Grandmother Trudy for Christmas in 1981. (I love the gift of literature - I think it's madly romantic in any form, whether it's a book of maps, a coffee table book full of photographs accompanied by minimal text or a hardcover novel). My re-discovery immediately gave me a deep sense of nostalgia thinking about the time my family and I have enjoyed in Sea Island, Georgia. It's been some time since we have visited (the resort has changed considerably since then), however it was a place we looked forward to visiting every year and perhaps part of the reason I want to spend a part of my life living in the south one day.

Time spent in Sea Island was the epitome of carefree. My sister and I would spend our days swimming to our hearts' content, searching for sand dollars on the beach, or playing shuffle board while our parents and grandparents would soak in the sun reading the paper. Afterward, my sister and I would reward ourselves with the resort's iconic "gold brick sundae" and in true southern style, a Mr. Pibb, to satisfy our thirst.

Cocktail hour seemed to always start an hour earlier when on vacation, and the adults were easily obliged. They'd sit outside on our terrace with their gin and tonics overlooking the marsh while discussing topics completely foreign to us youngsters. In the early mornings, my Grandparents would zip off on their bicycles to play tennis, and upon their return, they would ride with my sister and I in the driveway. By nightfall, we'd head to The Cloister for dinner, dancing and bingo. I would be taken by the elaborate bird cages lining the hallway of the foyer of the building with beautifully colored parakeets flooding the room with their sweet music. To this day, I have visions of dancing to Frank Sinatra after dinner with my Grandfather Jack, looking up at him with admiration as he hummed to the tune of the music, alive in his own euphoria.

Sea Island was indeed a "happy isle" for us and I look forward to going back sometime in the near future. I think it's lovely to share a destination as a family to cherish for a lifetime, whether it may be close or far from home. Do you have a "happy isle" you enjoy with your family?